(Photo by Calvin Shepherd - Use By Permission)

Alderson West Virginia - A History

The Greenbrier River

In   the   development   of   any   civilization,   having   a   source   of   water   was   critical.   It’s   no   doubt   the   people   who   settled   in   the   vicinity   of Alderson   chose   the location   because   of   the   river.   The   native   Americans   were   probably   the   first   to   see   it   and   the   Lenape   natives   called   it,   “Onepake”   (O-ne-pa-ke),   for Dark Path. The   sources   of   the   Greenbrier   are   two   streams,   the   East   Fork   Greenbrier   River   and   the   West   Fork   Greenbrier   River   at   Durbin,   West   Virginia.   It   flows for   173   miles   to   the   New   River   at   Hinton,   West   Virginia.   It   goes   through   Pocahontas,   Greenbrier   and   Summers   Counties,   past   several   communities including Cass, Marlinton, Hillsboro, Ronceverte, Fort Springs, Alderson, and Hinton. Before   the   coming   of   the   railroad, Alderson   had   no   bridge   and   the   river   was   crossed   by   boats   or   fords   using   wagons,   horses,   or   on   foot.   Freight   had to   be   shipped   in   from   the   east   by   large   flat   bottom   boats   called   “batteaus”.   These   long,   flat   bottomed   batteaus   were   typically   between   40-60   feet   long, 6-8 feet wide, and created for the purpose of transporting goods in shallow water. In   1812   a   survey   expedition   led   by   Supreme   Court   Justice   John   Marshall   to   establish   a   river   route   connecting   the   James   River   near   Lynchburg,   VA, and   the   Kanawha   River;   this   included   a   section   of   the   Greenbrier   River   from   Caldwell   to   Hinton.   Forging   the   route   would   enhance   trading   and commerce between the East and the Ohio River Valley. The   22-member   commission   departed   from   Lynchburg   on   September   1,   1812,   into   uncharted   waters.   Only   John   Marshall   and   one   other   crew member would complete the entire, month long trip. The   crew   traveled   up   the   James   and   Jackson   rivers   to   the   base   of   the   Allegheny   Mountains.   They   portaged   the   Batteau by   wagon   over   the Alleghenies   to   the   mouth   of   Howard’s   Creek   at   Caldwell,   where   they   put   in   on   the   Greenbrier   River   on the   18th.   A   late   summer   drought   left   the   water   level   quite   low   in   the   Greenbrier,   and   it   took   the   expedition   10   days   to reach   the   mouth   in   Hinton.   They   spent   the   night   of   September   28   on   one   of   the   islands   at   the   confluence   of   the Greenbrier   and   New   rivers   and   began   the   last   section   of   the   expedition   down   the   New   on   the   29th.   They   reached   their destination,   the   mouth   of   the   New   at   the   Kanawha   River,   on   October   9,   1812.   The   canals   slated   to   trace   Marshall’s   route was   never   completely   finished   due   to   funding   issues   and   the   development   of   railways,   which   was   a   move   efficient   and economical   means   of   transportation.   However,   some   of   the   canals   were   dug   out   and   the   path   he   forged   was   used   in   the creation   of   the   railway,   U.   S.   Route   60,   and   Interstate   64.   The   photo   to   your   left,   shows   an   aerial   view   of   one   of   the batteau canals, left of the new bridge, following the curve of the highway. (Click on photo for larger view)

Main Index

Beginning

The contents contained on this page is copyrighted and the sole property of Min7th Productions.

Census Statistic

The History of Alderson, West Virginia From Multiple Sources and Photos - Compiled and Edited by Barry Worrell

Naturally   the   river   was   used   for   recreation   by   the   town   and   also   Camp   Greenbrier,    a   camp   for   boys,   which   was established   in   1893.   Using   the   river   for   recreation   was   part   of   Camp   Greenbrier’s   curriculum.      Not   only   did   this   boys camp   use   it   for   swimming,   they   also   use   it   for   canoeing.   Even   today   it’s   not   uncommon   during   the   summer   to   see an   group   of   canoes   from   the   camp   heading   west   toward   the   bridge   and   back.   (From   the   angle   of   the   photo,   it appears   to   be   taken   from   the   opposite   bank   of   the   river.   1910   photo   by   J.   W.   McClung,   Click   on   photo   for   larger view)

Canoes   on   the   Greenbrier.   Camp   Greenbrier   boys   assemble   before   the   eye   of   Mr.   McClung’s   camera   in   this   photo he copyrighted in 1907. Much smoke and commotion is being raised by a train invisible behind the trees at right.

The   alternate   swimming   hole   was   Rock   Bar,   which   is   about   a   mile   east   of   the   edge   of   Alderson.   The   river   there has   lots   of   shallow   water   and   deep   water   for   all.   Unlike   the   river   in   the   city   limits,   Rock   Bar   has   plenty   of   room   to sun bathe and lite a fire to cook out.  This photo taken circa late 1940s. (Click on photo for larger view)

Several   miles   up   stream   from   Alderson,   when   there   is   too   much   rain,   melting   of   snow,   or   a   combinations   of   both,   the   river   has   a   tendency   to   flood. Normally,   the   river   levels   are   changing   constantly,   however   since   1963   there   have   42   recorded   incidents   of   flooding   in Alderson   with   water   levels   over 11   feet.   Five   of   those   were   over   19   feet,   which   is   major   flood   conditions,   with   damage   to   homes   and   property.   So   far,   the   record   for   flooding   was   in 1985   and   1996,   where   waters   crested   to   23.95   feet   and   24.33   feet.   Frequently   basements   will   fill   up   and   mud   and   silt   are   left   to   shovel   out.   On   the other   hand,   during   the   dry   periods,   there   have   been   several   times   when   the   low   water   levels   have   been   below   2   feet.   (Click   on   photos   below   for   larger view)

As destructive and dangerous the river can be, it also is serene and absolutely beautiful. Summer brings excellent swimming, fishing, boating of just enjoying the view. (Click on photos below for larger view)

In the winter the waters can freeze over, or the snow can cover the ice, trees and ground. (Click on photos below for larger view)

It would be hard to measure the effect on those who’s daily lives lived and worked around the Greenbrier River. One thing for certain, they will never forget it.

In   1881   the   first   bridge   to   cross   the   Greenbrier   in   Alderson   was   built.   No   longer   would   townspeople   traveling   back   and   forth   be   hampered   by   the various seasonal hazards the river would bring. According   to   the   Encyclopedia   West   Virginia,   the   state   waters   harbor   a   diverse   assemblage   of   fishes.   There   are   154   native   species   in   our   lakes, streams,   and   rivers,   but   due   to   many   accidental   or   intentional   introductions,   the   total   number   present   actually   stands   at   179.   These   species   are distributed   among   24   different   families,   with   about   75   percent   found   in   just   five   families.   These   five   families   are   the   carps   and   minnows   (60   species), perches   (31),   suckers   (18),   basses   and   sunfishes   (14),   and   catfishes   (12).   Of   course,   not   all   of   these   fish   are   found   in   the   Greenbrier,   but   certainly enough to supply fish as a source of food. In   addition,   you   can   find   crayfish,   lizards   and   one   particular   salamander,   the   “water   dog”,   officially   known   as   the   Hellbender.   Hellbenders   are   large aquatic   salamanders   that   may   reach   24   inches   in   length.   They   are   generally   brown   with   irregular,   dark   spots   on   the   back.   Unique   characteristics include   a   flat   head   with   small   eyes,   wrinkled   folds   of   skin   between   the   front   and   hind   limbs,   and   gill   slits   that   persist   throughout   life.   An   awesome looking beast the first time you see one in crawling on the river bottom.

2012   marks   the   200th   anniversary   of   that   1812   survey   expedition   led   by   Supreme   Court   Justice   John Marshall.      The   expedition   trip   was   re-created   by Andrew   Shaw,   and   his   crew   of   batteau   enthusiasts   with   their hand   built   43   foot   by   7   foot   batteau   named   the   Mary   Marshal.      It   is   not   known   if   they   use   some   of   the   “batteau canals” which still exists to day. (Click on photo for larger view)